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A Facelift for an Ancient Kurdish Citadel

Nivīsevan / Yazan: TIME, By Charles McDermid  
Demjmźr / Tarih: 30.07.2010  03:24:39

A Facelift for an Ancient Kurdish
Citadel


By Charles McDermid






Thursday, Jul. 29, 2010



Its origins are an archaeological riddle worthy of Indiana Jones, but it's also a beacon of an oil-rich future.
Welcome to the at least 7,000-year-old Arbil citadel in Iraq's northern Kurdistan region, a stunning walled
fortress on a roughly 10-hectare site that some experts say is the oldest continuously inhabited settlement
on earth (it's still occupied today, by a single family of 12). After years of stop-start negotiations, the citadel
is finally set for a face-lift and likely World Heritage status.
Nobody knows who first built the towering castle-city, but it was already famous when Alexander the Great
added it to his empire in 331 B.C. Some 1,500 years later, it took an invading Mongol army two tries and a
six-month siege to storm it. (See the top 10 precarious buildings.)
The list of successive ruling cultures is a history lesson in itself — Sumerian, Babylonian, Assyrian,
Sassanian and Ottoman, among many others — and each left its history behind, adding to an
archaeological layer cake now 32 m high. (Comment on this story.)
Despite pleas from scientists going back to the 1930s, the citadel has never been fully excavated. This is all
about to change. The renovation of the ancient hilltop city has become the keystone in an ongoing
campaign to turn vast archaeological treasures into tourist dollars for Kurdistan, a stable and prospering
region that bills itself as "the other Iraq."
Arbil, the capital of the semiautonomous Kurdistan region, is just 340 km north of war-torn Baghdad but
may as well lie in a parallel universe. Foreigners can go about freely, crimes and violence against visitors
are unheard of, and the most daunting tasks are finding one's way through labyrinthine local bazaars and
keeping pace with the legendary Kurdish hospitality.
In Kurdistan, against the backdrop of the snow-capped Qandil Mountains, a frenetic frontier economy is
being driven by the promise of petrodollars from the region's estimated 25 billion barrels of proven oil
reserves. Development is intense. New hotels, shopping malls and housing tracts are springing up to meet
Arbil's surging population of more than 1 million. The bars in Ankawa, the city's laid-back Christian quarter,
are a heady admixture of oilmen, contractors, journalists, security teams, aid workers and, increasingly,
tourists.
"I really get the sense that they are coming to see for themselves what Kurdistan is about, in contrast to
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what we all know and see constantly on the news about Iraq," says Shannon Skerritt, who with his brother
and a Kurdish partner operates the Sulaymaniyah-based tour company Kurdistan Adventures. "I guess they
want to be some of the first to see this area."
The Kurdistan regional government recorded more than 132,000 foreign tourist arrivals in 2009, an almost
150% increase from 2007's figure. The government is bracing for more, opening a $400 million state-
of-the-art airport in Arbil and slashing fuel costs to attract airlines. Most regional carriers are making daily
flights; Lufthansa and Austrian Airlines fly four and three times a week respectively. Rotana Hotels and
Millennium and Copthorne Hotels are developing sites in the city, and a free 10-day tourist visa is available
for most countries' citizens.
While all of these developments are sure to attract travelers, local officials feel that archaeology is the ace
in the hole for Kurdistan's fledgling tourism sector. "We have amazing archaeological sites that are equal to
anything in the world," says Arbil Mayor Nihad Qoja. "If we can vitalize these sites, believe me, each year
millions of people will visit Kurdistan."
This is where the citadel comes in. In late June, Kurdish officials and UNESCO representatives inaugurated
the first renovations in a multimillion-dollar effort to bring the slumbering city back to life. In a shortlist of
possible new World Heritage sites, UNESCO described the citadel as "one of the most dramatic and
visually exciting cultural sites not only in the Middle East but also in the world."
The first steps will be small, says Dara Yacoubi, an architect and head of the Kurdish reconstruction team.
Initially, a few dozen of the citadel's most valuable houses will be restored. Later, similar work will begin on
its three mosques, plus gates, gravesites and a central hammam that dates back to 1775. In three years,
Yacoubi expects the citadel to be a significant tourist attraction. Within 10 years, he envisages museums
and boutique hotels. Along with the renovations, the first major excavations on the citadel grounds will be
conducted. Regular rumors of treasure chambers, temples and royal tombs are still just that, so experts are
panting to dig in.
"The Arbil citadel has played a very great role in the history of the city. In fact, for many centuries it was the
city," says Kanan Mufti, general director of Kurdistan's Ministry of Culture, who was born in the citadel and
traces his family's roots there back 500 years. "It is only fitting that the citadel will have a role in the future of
Arbil." Says Mayor Qoja: "The city's future is bright. We have mountains and rivers; we have oil reserves
that haven't even been tapped." For him, tourism will be another great boost to the local economy. So while
Arbil's walls may have withstood some of history's greatest armies, the hope now is that they will be
swarmed by a new generation of invader — the free-spending tourist.
See Time.com/Travel for city guides, stories and advice.
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Find this article at:
http://www.time.com/time/travel/article/0,31542,2007282,00.html
http://www.time.com/time/printout/0,8816,2007282,00.html


2010-07-30

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